Tuesday, 10 December 2013

Sheffield Opens

Last weekend I travelled up to Sheffield for my first competition in Youth A. This was a biggy, the selection for the GB teams and I knew I had to do well to get selected again. The competitions were held at the Works and at the Foundry two classic walls that would both hold great competitions.

On the Saturday was the bouldering at the Works. For once I was allowed a late start so got to the wall at about 11 which was great because getting up early is just a pain. I warmed up well and our problems looked really good with just two really hard looking ones. Our time started and I got on with it. I got the first six flash and they were quite easy just technical nothing too hard. The last two problems I couldn't do at all which was a really disappointment, I fell of the first and second move on both. Just not good enough. I thought this would mean I might have missed out on the final. Luckily I made it though, but I had only to drop one problem and I would have been out of the final. Pretty close.

After a long wait in isolation which was really stressful and cramped, it was our turn to climb in the final. Our first problem was on the steep section and was so hard! I got the bonus second go but couldn't touch matching the second to last hold, it was just too hard, even Dom didn't do it! Next up was another desperate and there was another totally stopper move but William did this one which changed things about a bit. Pressure was definitely on for the last problem a vertical wall with lots of features, it looked cool. I went out and knew I had to perform well. On my first go I slipped early on which was really annoying, but second go I got the send! It was such an awesome problem but all Jim, Alex and Dom flashed it! This put me in fifth place was good but I wasn't sure if it would be good enough.

The next day was the route competition and I wasn't that fresh especially with a really early start. The wall was packed which didn't help at all but the routes looked really good and I was excited. I topped our first qualifier with no problem seeing as it was only about 7b+ but our next one looked desperate. It lots of tufas and features which didn't look fun. I watched Jim fall of really low which didn't help my confidence. Trying to keep positive I warmed up and tied into the rope. I struggled on the lower section not feeling that strong and as I got onto the roof I didn't have enough power, I fell on a big move but it was easily enough to get me into the final in joint second position. I went upstairs to relax and try to get away from the mayhem. This helped loads and having a quick nap in isolation with everyone laughing at me. Our route was what I had expected, it was the blue which once again featured lots of tufas and big moves. It looked fun but really dam hard. I walked out, feeling calmer than I ever had, and more focused. It was great. I climbed the first easy section easily and got pulling on the first section of roof. It was bouldery and I was struggling. I held a big cutloose on the tufas and managed to find a little rest. It was going well. I stuck a huge move into a pocket and got the next two holds. The next move looked desperate! I just jumped widely for the next hold without a chance to stick it. I had done my best and was really pleased with how I climbed. I watched as Alex, Dom and amazingly Will fell just before me! I had won! I was surprised to say the least but it was a great start to Youth A!

So what's next? I am going to train over the winter hopefully getting a hell of a lot stronger for the trips in Febuary and Easter! Still psyched keep going everyone!
Rock and Rapid