Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Stavanger EYC

This was the last European cup, and I'd failed twice to make final once in Imst and once in Ratho. I'm not sure how I would react to just missing out again. I'd but in so much work and I desperately wanted to get it to pay off, feeling that you aren't improving is the worst feeling in climbing. I was feeling positive for this competition though it was the smallest and two of the people who normally beat me weren't there. Hopes were high.

After all the boring travelling to Norway, we got there at about 12 at night so we couldn't see much. When I woke up though, the town that we were staying in was amazing, a nice lake outside our hotel with lots of amazing buildings. The thunder storms where cool as well, really scary though.

The wall was about 15m high not that tall for European standard but still I knew the routes would be really hard. My first qualifier was up a steep wall on black holds. I warmed up well, and was buzzing. Had butterflies though, I'd defiantly had put the pressure on myself. I sat under the route, wondering if I had put on too much pressure. The high point was a couple holds from the top so that was what I was aiming to beat. Once again messing up my knot the first time, because I was so nervous. I felt my heart hammering in my chest as I went up to the wall. I started, the first moves were really powerful and I was instantly shocked. It wasn't going well but I managed to find a rest and recover myself. I was once again calm. The next moves were really hard and this was the main section where most people fell. I kept going, but the pump had hit me and I was now struggling desperately, I did the next couple moves and was on the second to last hold! I couldn't even hold it, my route was over I just got the plus and lowered down disappointed I had been that close to topping a route.

So my next route, it looked amazing! A massive overhanging groove with some crazy moves. I was excited and on first, yes! Could set a bar for the others to follow. I wasn't as nervous this time but still I had put the pressure on. I cruised the first steep wall and just about sketched my way into the groove rest. It had been hard but I still had a couple more clips to go, it wasn't going to be easy. I did the little traverse feeling tired but still able to keep pulling, I looked up and there where only three holds left, two of which were awful looking slopers. Wow! They weren't actually that bad, and I could hold them easily. I made the last couple moves and clipped that chains! This was my first top in a European and it felt amazing! I lowered of just feeling insane knowing that everyone else would be scared silly of the bar I set. Although this wasn't as hard as I first thought and both Will and Jim both topped. So after qualification there was nothing more I could have done. I checked the results and guess what! I'd qualified in 4th place! I was shocked more than anything else to do so well.

After a good nights sleep it was final time! Waking up at about 6, I mean that is stupid why can't we have a lie-in, we deserve it. Isolation was impressive and I felt a bit weak to be there. Observation was soon and I was ready for it, but what I saw wasn't what I expected, the route had a huge double dyno in the middle! It was psyched. After my last bit of warming up I was up. I waited on the seats nervous but also buzzing. The lights where down and I walked out feeling the anticipation, I quickly read the start again and started. The first overhang was just powerful but easy. Then came the roof which was the first hard moves but I was fresh so did them easily. After getting to the two sidepulls I had took a quick rest and set up for the double dyno. It was big but not big enough, I got it and was at a great rest where I got everything back. The next couple moves where hard, and I got pumped, I knew I had to kick up a gear and climb quicker but this was my mistake, I got two crimps and didn't know what to do so I went for a massive iron cross! It was desperate and I fell. After the final I had finished in 7th place! My best result and I was happy with it. Finally a good result.

So all the lead competitions are over, and I've got Laval next the European boulder so it is time to get strong! Psyched for it!

Rock and Rapid
Troll Outdoor