Thursday, 23 August 2012


Frankenjura                                                                          Ceuse

King Lui 7c Flash                                                                  Mirage 7c+ Flash
Beavis and Butthead 7b+ Flash                                             Correspondence Imaginaire 7c+ second go
Nimue 7b+ Flash                                                                   Vagabond 7c onsight
L'eau Rage 8a second go                                                        Corps Entrager 7b+ flash
Hercules 7c onsight                                                                Alabama 7b+
Sledgehammer 7b+ flash                                                        Blocage Violent 7b+ onsight
Azvenzgronzkaznozuda 7b+ flash                                         Berlin 7c second go
Love Parade 7c+                                                                    La Chose 7c second go
Bull Power 8a second go                                                       Makach Walou second go
Liebesmuh 7b+ flash                                                             Queue de rat 7b+
Rauchende Bolts 7c                                                               Au sud de Nullu part 7b+ flash
Fliegender Grafix 8a                                                             Bourinator 8a
Stromline 7c
Saftfeld 7b+ flash
Kraftfeld 7c+
Liebe ohne Chance 7c
? 7c+ second go


Bourinator 8a

In my opinion Ceuse is the best crag in the world. Every route there is one of the best routes I've climbed. On the day we arrived I was really excited and we went to Le Pont and did six 7a all were amazing! The cascade sector is the most beautiful routes on in the world. Here I flashed Mirage and Corps entranger both in my top 10 of favourite routes. I did Correspondence second go but the highlight was onsighting Vagabond which I found really hard and I was so pumped at the top! The next sector is Thorgal which is slabby I only did two routes a 6b+ and a 6c+ there both were ok. My favourite sector is Berlin the routes here are really pumpy and have some hard moves on them. I did la chose 7c, Berlin 7c Queue de rat 7b+, Makach Walou 7c+ all second go and onsighted the famous Blocage which was one of the highlights of the trip. The hardest route I did at Ceuse was Bourinator which was a real epic for me falling of practically every move on the start and the dyno at the end but when I clipped the chains all the effort was worth it! On our last day we went to the grand face and it was really good I flashed an amazing 7b+ and 7b.
Correspondence Imaginaire 7c+

Alabama 7b+


The Frankenjura is a beautiful forest in Germany and whats even better is it has got loads of amazing climbing. On the first day we went to a crag called Diebisloch which is a 10 metre cave. I flashed all of the routes I tryed one was 7c called King Lui. On day two I finished of a 7c+ which I tryed to do on day one. The 7c+ was called Loveparade and it was sick hard with a vicious deadpoint at the top! On the third day we went to a nice crag in the morning and did a classic 7b+ in the afternoon we went to Holgetzars wand and I did my first 8a of the trip it was L'eau Rage and was a rising traverse with two dynos and a crimpy as wall. Day four we went to the crag by our campsite and I onsighed my first 7c called hercules. It only had one hard dyno but I thought it was soft. I then did another 7c. The next day we went to a small crag to try Bull Power 8a this went second go and it wasn't that bad. I was now focused on doing to 8a's in a day so we went to try Fliegender Grafix which was an amazing route with some of the coolest moves I have ever climbed. After falling on the crux dyno twice a had two more attempts. The first of these two I made it to the top crux and fell there I was gutted! I had one more try to get two 8a's in a day so the pressure was on. To my delight I topped it and I think it might be the hardest route I have ever done! I also got a 7c+ done at the same crag which was amazing. For the final day of the trip I did an amazing 7c second go and tryed another 8a which was vertical! I could do all the moves but couldn't link them!
7b+ flash at Diebisloch

L'eau Rage 8a

Fliegender Grafix 8a

Bull Power 8a

Wednesday, 22 August 2012

Youth Open and Imst EYC

My first youth open was at Ratho and I had great fun the first route had a nice arete and I did ok on it the second was a dirt slab which I fell really early on. I must practise slabs. This just scraped me into the final in 6th place. The final was on the hanger wall which suits me so much I managed to get to the second to last move after messing up on a clip. This got me into second place and I only lost on time.

My third EYC was in Imst in Austria it is the most amazing climbing wall I have ever seen! I was quite nervous about climbing there but my first qualifier was a nice route and I climbed really well on it. The second had a 'vert dirt' bit which I fell of which was really gutting. The comp was good but the Alpine Coaster was better. Another note don't let Ian cook he isn't very good!