King Lui 7c Flash Mirage 7c+ Flash
Beavis and Butthead 7b+ Flash Correspondence Imaginaire 7c+ second go
Nimue 7b+ Flash Vagabond 7c onsight
L'eau Rage 8a second go Corps Entrager 7b+ flash
Hercules 7c onsight Alabama 7b+
Sledgehammer 7b+ flash Blocage Violent 7b+ onsight
Azvenzgronzkaznozuda 7b+ flash Berlin 7c second go
Love Parade 7c+ La Chose 7c second go
Bull Power 8a second go Makach Walou second go
Liebesmuh 7b+ flash Queue de rat 7b+
Rauchende Bolts 7c Au sud de Nullu part 7b+ flash
Fliegender Grafix 8a Bourinator 8a
Saftfeld 7b+ flash
Liebe ohne Chance 7c
? 7c+ second go
Thursday, 23 August 2012
The Frankenjura is a beautiful forest in Germany and whats even better is it has got loads of amazing climbing. On the first day we went to a crag called Diebisloch which is a 10 metre cave. I flashed all of the routes I tryed one was 7c called King Lui. On day two I finished of a 7c+ which I tryed to do on day one. The 7c+ was called Loveparade and it was sick hard with a vicious deadpoint at the top! On the third day we went to a nice crag in the morning and did a classic 7b+ in the afternoon we went to Holgetzars wand and I did my first 8a of the trip it was L'eau Rage and was a rising traverse with two dynos and a crimpy as wall. Day four we went to the crag by our campsite and I onsighed my first 7c called hercules. It only had one hard dyno but I thought it was soft. I then did another 7c. The next day we went to a small crag to try Bull Power 8a this went second go and it wasn't that bad. I was now focused on doing to 8a's in a day so we went to try Fliegender Grafix which was an amazing route with some of the coolest moves I have ever climbed. After falling on the crux dyno twice a had two more attempts. The first of these two I made it to the top crux and fell there I was gutted! I had one more try to get two 8a's in a day so the pressure was on. To my delight I topped it and I think it might be the hardest route I have ever done! I also got a 7c+ done at the same crag which was amazing. For the final day of the trip I did an amazing 7c second go and tryed another 8a which was vertical! I could do all the moves but couldn't link them!
Wednesday, 22 August 2012
My first youth open was at Ratho and I had great fun the first route had a nice arete and I did ok on it the second was a dirt slab which I fell really early on. I must practise slabs. This just scraped me into the final in 6th place. The final was on the hanger wall which suits me so much I managed to get to the second to last move after messing up on a clip. This got me into second place and I only lost on time.
My third EYC was in Imst in Austria it is the most amazing climbing wall I have ever seen! I was quite nervous about climbing there but my first qualifier was a nice route and I climbed really well on it. The second had a 'vert dirt' bit which I fell of which was really gutting. The comp was good but the Alpine Coaster was better. Another note don't let Ian cook he isn't very good!